About thirty kilometres from Ouarzazate, on the bank of the Ounila river, a hill is covered with earthen houses, crenellated towers and stepped lanes. This is the ksar of Aït Ben Haddou (also spelt Aït Benhaddou), one of the most famous images of Morocco. It features in several of our trips, so here is what you need to know to make the most of it.
A ksar, not a kasbah
People often say “the kasbah of Aït Ben Haddou”, but the site is a ksar: a fortified village where several families lived behind the same wall, with their houses, granaries and shared spaces. A kasbah is the fortified home of a single family. To understand the difference and see other examples, read our article Kasbahs, palaces of the desert.
The ksar grew up on the caravan route that linked the Sahara to Marrakech across the High Atlas. It is built the way people built everywhere in the south: with raw earth, rammed earth and sun-dried bricks, with a little straw mixed into the mud.
A World Heritage Site since 1987
Aït Ben Haddou has been on the UNESCO World Heritage List since 1987, as an outstanding example of the earthen architecture of southern Morocco. After its listing, the ksar was restored using traditional Berber techniques. Most inhabitants now live in the modern village on the other bank, but a few families still live in the old ksar.
A film set
Film lovers know the place well. Lawrence of Arabia, Jesus of Nazareth, The Mummy, Gladiator and Kundun were shot here, and Game of Thrones turned it into the city of Yunkai. It is no coincidence: nearby Ouarzazate has hosted film studios for decades. Our local guide will gladly point out the scenes you will recognise.
How the visit works
You reach the old ksar on foot from the modern village, crossing the riverbed. The visit is led by a local guide, who explains how the ksar was built, how families lived and what the granaries were for. The lanes climb to the top of the hill, where the view stretches over the Ounila valley, the palm grove and the mountains: the reward for the climb.
A few tips:
- Come in the morning or late afternoon: the low light brings out the ochre of the earth and the lanes are quieter.
- Wear closed shoes: the paths are steep and sometimes uneven.
- Bring water and a hat: the climb is in full sun.
- Ask before photographing residents and craftspeople, who are happy to welcome you into their shops.
Visiting Aït Ben Haddou with Atlas Experience
The ksar is part of several of our trips, always with a guided visit:
- From Marrakech, as a day trip: The Road of the Kasbahs, via the Tizi n’Tichka pass, Télouet and the Ounila valley;
- From Ouarzazate, as a day trip: The Ksour of the South, with lunch with a local family in the Fint oasis;
- As a stop on the way to the desert: Sahara Express, Erg & Reg or the Atlas and Sahara combined tour, which includes a night there.
Coming from Marrakech? Our article on the Tizi n’Tichka road describes the stops along the way. You will also find practical details on our Aït Benhaddou page.
